Western Alberta does not have a single defining bouldering area like Frank Slide, the Kelowna Boulder fields or the Grand Wall boulders. Instead, bouldering here is characterized by its many pockets of climbing tucked away in different parts of the province. Ranging from solitary quartzite blocks out on the prairie, to quiet forest zones, to cliff band drop offs and alpine boulder fields, there is a little bit of everything. We believe the diverse geology, geography, landscapes and weather, make bouldering in Western Alberta special.
Climbers have been bouldering in Western Alberta for well over 50 years. During this time there have been three distinct waves of development. The first wave started in the early 1960’s and centred around the Okotoks Erratic, or Big Rock, and the Calgary Mountain Club. This culminated with some of the earliest recorded hard boulder problems in the country. For a time, people travelled from all over North America to climb at the Big Rock. These problems are particularly impressive when you think that they were done before sticky rubber, gymnastic chalk, bouldering pads or indoor gym facilities. The second wave of exploration and development started in the late 90’s and ran into the mid 2000’s. Many areas were discovered and two editions of a guidebook were published. Some of these areas like Big Choss and White Buddha, are still quite popular today. Others, like Bonsai, Cathedral and Takkakaw, have fallen off the radar until recently. The third wave, which started around 2015, is ongoing. Quality new zones like Old Goat and The Gateway have been explored and developed, and others await those willing to put in the work. Recently, bouldering has grown in popularity and gained momentum in Alberta This new energy inspired the formation of the Western Alberta Bouldering Association (WABA) in 2020, and the creation of a new Alberta Bouldering guidebook (set to be released in 2021).
Part of WABA’s mission is to work with stakeholders and land managers to ensure access, obtain permission for new development and to conduct maintenance in established areas. Another part is to foster and develop the local community. Many passionate climbers have spent time bouldering in Western Alberta but we have never had a strong community. We want to change that. Inspired by our neighbours, the Okanogan Bouldering Society (OBS), and the Southern Alberta Bouldering Association (SABA), we plan to launch a small festival of our own to showcase our areas, connect with climbers, encourage good stewardship and most importantly, just have fun.