Messages from the Board:
Tshirts, The Nest and More

The WABA board has several messages to share all of which get covered further in their own sections of this edition of the WABAler except for information regarding our 2024 shirts and the remaining mini guides for the Highwood. So we will start by reminding folks to check them out and be sure to grab yours to support our initiatives by following this link: https://westernalbertabouldering.ca/store/ 

On a more sombre note the board has sad news regarding the Nest. This summer there were a series of strange events. Some of you might remember a post about a bridge that had been constructed from live trees. A well-intentioned attempt to minimize impact and respect the environment took a very unexpected turn. Further information regarding this can be found in Featured Climb and or Crag.

Featured Climb and or Crag:
Developments at the Nest

In mid-July, a bridge appeared at The Nest in Kananaskis Country. It was constructed from live trees that had been cut down leaving stumps approximately 4 feet above the ground. When it was discovered, a post on the Western Alberta Bouldering Association Facebook group was made expressing concerns about the environmental impact of the makeshift structures, emphasizing the importance of adhering to land regulations and preserving natural habitats. This sparked a range of responses from the community, highlighting differing opinions on the necessity and legality of such structures. 

A few weeks after its discovery, the bridge was removed and disassembled. This somehow escalated into a conflict that culminated in damage to some of the Nest’s most classic boulders. The WABA was notified of the damage by a climber on August 31st. They were projecting a climb and arrived to find the landing destroyed and many bolts strategically placed in the rock to prevent climbing the boulders. As soon as the WABA learned about the damage an emergency board meeting was held and CASA (the Climbing Access Society of Alberta) was consulted to determine how to proceed. Not knowing who the other party was, the decision was made to leave a note for them in hopes that they would return to the Nest and that we could potentially discuss the matter. The board is working with key sport climbing route developers who have experience in bolting/rebolting to do their best to mitigate the worst of the damage. Unfortunately, some holds, including the start jug on The Sage, have been irreparably damaged. In addition to The Sage, The Bleeding Edge of Free Will, Anarchy, and a number of other lines located on the The Brain Wall have been affected. We are hopeful that by spring the bolt removal/repairs will be complete so that any of the affected lines will be available to climb without further damage to the rock.

Spotlight on Climbing Ethics or Access Issues:
Big Rock and Frank Slide Highway Update 

Many of you have been waiting for news about access at Big Rock. Recently, we have learned some more information and will share it below. 

For those who need a recap:

Climbing access at Big Rock has long been contentious. In the late 1990s, an attempt was made by the AB government to ban climbing at Big Rock. At that time there was a large public outcry, which led to public consultations and a verbal agreement that allowed for climbing provided no pitons or fixed anchors were used. During the pandemic, the WABA board became aware that this agreement seemed to have changed but despite our best efforts, we were not able to get clarity or confirmation from Historic Resources Alberta as to what or when that change had occurred. 

The New Information:

Fast forward to March 2024 when a young student from U of C was fined for climbing at Big Rock. The charge was trespass and there is a court date scheduled to determine whether that charge will stick. Unfortunately, from an access perspective, it is a lose/lose scenario. If they are charged it sets a precedent for all future climbers, but if they are acquitted the judge is unlikely to rule in a way that prevents future climbers from being charged similarly. In learning of this, the WABA board has sought legal counsel as to how to proceed. We have also worked with the CASA board to draft a letter to the Minister of Historic Resources to try to get more clarity. 

We learned from this work that the law changed sometime around 2013. At that point, the previous handshake agreement providing for climbing was rescinded and climbing was prohibited. While the WABA was not yet incorporated, both the CMC and CASA were around but they were not advised or notified by the government of the change. The current sentiment from CASA is that challenging this prohibition on climbing is very unlikely to be successful. Further, in mounting a challenge we would be risking creating access issues for other historic sites (think Frank Slide) and some notable sport climbing areas.

We will continue to update the community on the situation. Please continue to avoid climbing at Big Rock for the time being.

GIS

Over the past year, Alessandro has been working with Marie-Eve Gautier to build a database of all the climbing sites/trails/parking lots in Alberta for use by all groups that are a part of CASA. This has many uses and implications. The most obvious for us is that when the WABA wants to propose trail work we will need a GIS map of what we want to do to submit to the relevant land manager (AB Parks, Public Lands, BNP, etc). A second use is that it allows us to identify all the different land use zones that our climbing areas occur on. A third use is bringing someone up to speed about an area that they know little about. Expect to hear more about the GIS project in upcoming issues. 

Frank Slide

While not strictly WABA jurisdiction, Alessandro Roome-Sandrin has been working with SABA and Trent Hoover through CASA to map Frank Slide in the GIS database. Below is the map that we created that overlays the main boulders in Frank with the proposed highway twinning as we understand it. 

In working on this map, Marie-Eve Gautier was able to determine who was in charge of the twinning project. This allowed Trent to have an in-person meeting with the lead engineer. With the map, Trent met with this person from the Transportation department. At the meeting, Trent was told that the Frank section of the twinning was many years in the future and that the map that we had been given was just one of many options. That’s great news for now, but we still have work to do to ensure that the bouldering in Frank is well recognized both by the Crowsnest Pass community and by the Provincial Government. Things like the Tour de Frank are a great example of this, as are trail cams, trail signs, guidebooks, and anything that portrays how well-loved the area is. Through our association with CASA, the WABA is working to support SABA in their efforts to mitigate any damage to the climbing in Frank Slide. 

Events:

Pub Nights

WABA usually hosts / co-hosts 2-3 Pub nights per year intending to provide a space for folks to come together and discuss their latest projects, new climbs, and developments within the bouldering scene over the past few months. So far this year we have had 2 pub nights, the first in the spring at SoCal Bouldering in Calgary, and the second at Sheep Dog Brewing in Canmore in conjunction with CASA and BVCAS. 

Bonsai Cleanup Recap

On September 28th the WABA held a parking lot and crag cleanup at Bonsai. This is our second fall cleanup at a zone in the AB Parks jurisdiction. Last fall we held on around the same time at the Yam/Big Choss parking. Fortunately, this year the weather co-operated. Over 20 people turned out, which was amazing to see. Despite its lower general users the Bonsai parking lot had a significant amount of trash. The crag, however, was quite clean and only minimal climber detritus was removed. 

The cleanup was followed by a fun social climb. These cleanup days serve a variety of very important purposes. They are deeply appreciated by Parks and go a long way to helping us in our relationship building. It’s much easier to ask for things if you are already giving back. They also represent a great opportunity to build community, to have in-person conversations, and to foster the kind of stewardship that opens doors with the government. 

Winter pub night

Over the years we have discussed having some type of social event during the dark days of winter. If this is something you would be keen on let us know. Send us a DM, an email, or tell us in person. 

Movie screening

Another idea we had for a mid-winter event is a movie night. We are exploring the possibility of a film showing. Again, let us know if you think this is a good idea. 

Spring pub night

No fixed date set yet, but tentatively sometime in April or May. 

Big Rock cleanup 

Currently, it is the view of the board that despite the inability to climb at Big Rock we should continue to be stewards of the site and go ahead with our annual spring cleanup. This is generally the second Wednesday in May (May 14th in 2025), weather permitting.

Featured Alberta Climbers:
Josh Muller Climbs Siren’s Song Sit Start v15

After spending much of the 2024 summer season working on and subsequently sending “Siren’s Song Sit Start,” Josh Muller achieved a life goal of climbing the grade of V15, something that has eluded him for years. The proximity of “Siren’s Song Sit Start” to home, allowed him to focus without the pressure of limited time on road trips. Josh mentions in his Instagram post “that persistent injuries and increasing responsibilities at nearly 38, left him in doubt as to whether his goal was still possible”. The send not only fulfilled a personal dream but also restored his belief in his ability to climb at a high level. Although the final grade is uncertain due to a broken hold forcing the use of a new beta, Josh suggested it could be V15 and looks forward to hearing other climbers’ opinions on the grade in the future. 

In 2023, Austin Purdy of Colorado made the first ascent of the line and graded the boulder V14. One of the key holds subsequently broke leaving both the feasibility and the grade in question. Austin described Siren Song Sit as one of the best boulders he has ever done. He had this to say about it on Instagram “It has it all—powerful moves on sculpted edges and pinches, straight up an 18-foot, 40° wall, culminating in an epic throw to the lip. People travel the world for worse boulders, and I’m grateful to those who made this climb possible.”

In his Instagram caption, Josh also expressed gratitude for his friends and especially his wife Regan, who supported him on this long journey toward achieving his dream. We would be remiss if we did not also mention Loic Fujinaga. Loic has been instrumental in reviving Cathedral and opening many new classics. Although he was not the first to climb Siren Song Sit, his work in preparing the boulder was essential. Regardless of where the grade shakes out, it is the hardest line close to Calgary and among the hardest in Canada.

Siren’s Song Sit Start is located at the Cathedral Boulders near Field, British Columbia and about a two hour drive from Calgary. It is a sensitive summer bouldering zone within a delicate mountain ecosystem. The best time to visit is during July and August, as earlier or later in the season increases the likelihood of encounters with bears, which use the area frequently during the shoulder months. Climbers are urged to tread carefully, stick to the established trail system, and respect the native flora when developing new problems. Please also pay particular attention to the CP rail lease as failure to do so could easily result in loss of access. 

For those interested in the boulder the following link will take you to Josh’s send video he shared on his Instagram Account: https://www.instagram.com/p/C_-uRFfvbxZ/ 

And the following Link will take you to the FA announcement from Austin Purdy: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxp32JgO71R/ 

Donation / Patreon Information

As a non-profit association run by volunteers, any donations are greatly appreciated and will be used to fund: the purchase of tools for trail days, insurance for group events, website hosting, and ongoing development and access to local crags, including long term development such as better trail networks, signage, potential parking, washrooms, etc. Follow the link below to become a member of WABA or donate. 

Donate: https://westernalbertabouldering.ca/donate/ 

Become a Member: https://www.patreon.com/WABA708