Introduction
Since the 1950’s, climbers have been bouldering around Alberta, but it hasn’t been until recently that significant effort has been put into documenting and greatly expanding the sport. Western Alberta hosts some amazing bouldering, the word is getting out, and areas are continually being developed. WABA looks forward to continuing helping this expansion, and working to help educate, maintain and develop bouldering areas in a sustainable manner.
Safety:
Rock climbing is inherently dangerous. Accidents can, and do happen. Bouldering outside contains additional dangers as you are not in a controlled environment, and landings can be challenging. Please ensure to assess climbs and fall zones, climb within your ability, and ensure to climb with plenty of pads and spotters. Getting involved with our facebook group is a great way to meet people to share knowledge, gear and spotting.
Popular Bouldering Areas
In no particular order: Big Rock, White Buddha, Big Choss, Bonsai, Takakkaw Falls, Cathedral Forest, the Gateway…and many more. It’s also worth exploring south, and visiting the bouldering at Frank Slide, and taking a road trip west to visit the Kelowna and Squamish bouldering.
Big Choss
Hike: 30 minutes – Easy
A collection of boulders scattered in talus fields and forest. The approach is straightforward and mostly flat, however navigating the boulder field can be difficult and it is easy to get lost. The rock quality can be poor in places so it is possible that even popular and high traffic climbs have some loose rock.
Big Rock
Hike: 5 minutes – Easy
We are currently asking people to NOT climb at Big Rock until further notice.
Authorities have and will fine climbers at Big Rock. Please help protect future access and, for the time being, stay on the ground.
A huge quartzite erratic a short walk from the car in an open field. Many problems are tall with landings varying from flat dirt to rocky and uneven. Climbing access at Big Rock is currently uncertain. In 1999 an agreement was reached between the Calgary Mountain Club (CMC) and the Alberta government that allowed for climbers to use the Big Rock. In 2020 a prominent member of that club was approached by the RCMP and asked to stop climbing. In 2024, this has escalated to climbers at Big Rock being fined for trespassing. The CMC, WABA, and the Climbing Access society of Alberta (CASA) have been working to get answers.
White Buddha
Hike: 45 minutes – Moderate
A short section of cliff with steep overhanging sections and drop-off climbs. The cliff faces south on an open hillside resulting in a sun trap that can allow for climbing all months of the year. Hikers frequent the trail to the top of the ridge beyond the cliff so the area can see a lot of traffic. If going in winter expect the trail to be icy so bring appropriate footwear (ice spikes).
The Nest
Hike: 20 minutes – Easy
A small series of cliff bands with drop-off finishes and is a short hike from the road. The lower wall has mostly flat landings while the other two sections have more intimidating landings with either awkward steps or are close to cliff edges. The walls face south and get a fair bit of sun, especially the upper cave, making it possible to climb during shoulder seasons and sometimes in winter, weather permitting.
Old Goat
Hike: 45 minutes – Moderate
A cluster of huge limestone boulders scattered on a steep scree slope. Most of the boulders are tall and intimidating, however there are some smaller more manageable boulders as well. The rock quality can be poor and loose rock can be found in places. The hike is longer than other areas but mostly flat on a good trail, expect to see groups of hikers heading past the boulders to Old Goat Glacier. The parking is accessed through the Spray Lakes West Campground which is closed from Sept 19th – May 19th, during these times the hike will be significantly longer.
The Gateway
Hike: 1.5 – 2 hours – Difficult
A more serious bouldering objective with a long, strenuous hike. The trail is steep and has sections of bushwhacking and trail finding. The boulders are mostly overhanging with rough talus landings. This area is open and exposed, sometimes resulting in windy and cold conditions even on hot summer days. You can expect to have this area to yourself most days.
Guidebooks and Resources
A new Alberta bouldering guidebook by Ian Holmes and Mike Hopkins is expected to be released in 2021, and should provide in depth information for each crag.
Bouldering in the Canadian Rockies (2nd edition) by Marcus Norman was release in 2006, and is the only other guidebook available.
Online resources can be found on online climbing websites such as 27crags.com
Area Access
Bouldering in Western Alberta typically occurs in provincial or national parks. Please ensure to follow the park requirements for the location you are in. More information for each location can be found in the links below:
Please do not trespass on private land, and contact WABA if there are areas you’d like to work on for access.
Accommodation
There are plenty of accommodation options that can be found in the different cities and parks, and more information can be found through google and the different park websites. Ensure to book early and places tend to fill up quite quickly. If you are planning to random camp or van camp, please ensure to follow the rules for the areas you are looking to stay.
Climbing Resources
Climbing Gyms:
There are plenty of great climbing gyms in Alberta. A list can be found here
Climbing Supplies:
There are plenty of climbing supply stores located in the major cities, and found via google. It’s important to note that it is currently hard to find boulder mat rentals, but with the new guidebook and increase in climbing popularity, we estimate this will change quickly.
Climbing Code
WABA is proud to support the Rock Respect Climber’s Code.
- Respect Dangers
- Respect the Environment
- Respect Others
- Respect Access
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