April, 2025
Messages from the Board:
Tshirts, The Nest and More
A reminder for folks to check our website where you can purchase T-shirts and the Highwood miniguide (which is almost sold out!). Be sure to grab yours to support our initiatives by following this link: WABA Store
Nest Update
This spring, we’ve made progress repairing the vandalism at The Nest. As many of you know, bolts were placed around key holds to obstruct climbing on certain problems. See edition #2 of the WABAler on Patreon for more details.
On March 20th, Scott Eveleigh and Chris Perry made the first trip to the area this year. Chris has extensive knowledge of retrofitting sport climbs, and we used his expertise and custom tools to successfully remove eight bolts from the wall. We also identified bolts and areas that will require special attention. Many of the remaining bolts will be easy to remove with additional tools. Plans are to continue the repairs once the weather warms and the snow melts, allowing for effective filling of the unsightly bolt holes with epoxy. While many bolts remain, this was a promising first step in repairing the damage to these problems.
Featured Climb and or Crag: Area Trail Cameras
WABA is compiling trail camera data from popular bouldering areas to inform our stewardship efforts. This data helps us prioritize maintenance by tracking user volume, peak seasons, and weekday/weekend traffic. It also supports our collaboration with agencies like Alberta Parks and Public Land. Below is a summary of our current trail camera data, including notable wildlife sightings from the Skyline trail.
| Area | Boulderers Counted 2024 | Boulderers 2023 | Animals in 2024 |
| Skyline | 861 | 508 | Grizzly bear – 4, Black bear – 4, Cougar – 1 |
| Big Choss | 763 (Last updated Aug 10th) | 1072 | Black bear – 32, Cougar – 3, |
| Old Goat | 24 (Last updated Aug 10th) | 25 | Black bear – 1 |
Spotlight on Climbing Ethics or Access Issues:
Bearspaw Bluffs, Big Rock
Bearspaw Bluffs
Recently, our parent organization, the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA), acquired land designation data for the Bearspaw Bluffs area, located northwest of Calgary near the Bearspaw Dam. This data reveals that the common approach along the powerlines is on private property and should no longer be used. Additionally, climbs in the Mass Movement Sector (4-16) as described in the Alberta Bouldering Guidebook are also on private land and are now off-limits. The status of the point boulder is currently uncertain. We are actively seeking an alternative access route. Stay tuned for updates as the season progresses.
Big Rock (NEW INFO AS OF March 2025)
Many of you have been waiting for news about access at Big Rock. With the help of the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA) we are continuing to focus on the access issues of the area.
For those who need a recap:
Climbing access at Big Rock has long been contentious. In the late 1990s, an attempt was made by the AB government to ban climbing at Big Rock. At that time there was a large public outcry, which led to public consultations and a verbal agreement that allowed for climbing provided no pitons or fixed anchors were used. During the pandemic, the WABA board became aware that this agreement seemed to have changed but despite our best efforts, we were not able to get clarity or confirmation from Historic Resources Alberta as to what or when that change had occurred. In March 2024 a young student from U of C was fined for climbing at Big Rock. The charge was trespass and there is a court date scheduled to determine whether that charge will stick.
The New Information:
We will continue to update the community on the situation. Please continue to avoid climbing at Big Rock for the time being. The court date for the climbing fine has been delayed until later this year. While the outcome of the trial may give us more concrete information on the situation at Big Rock, it is not guaranteed. At the same time, CASA has written a letter to the minister of culture who is in charge of Big Rock, as well as the local MLA for the area. The two letters request a meeting to help clarify the status of bouldering at Big Rock.
Events: Pub Nights, Cleanups, and a Boulder Bash
Pub Nights
WABA usually hosts / co-hosts 2-3 Pub nights per year to provide a space for folks to come together and discuss their latest projects, new climbs, and developments within the bouldering scene over the past few months. For the past two years, we have held spring/fall pub nights in Calgary and a summer pub night in Canmore. This year we are switching it up a bit by hosting the summer pub night in Calgary. Stay tuned for more info.
Big Rock Cleanup
In 2023, WABA took over the annual spring Big Rock cleanup, a tradition previously organized by the Calgary Mountain Club (CMC) for 35 years, dating back to 1990.
The board believes that, despite the current climbing restrictions at Big Rock, we should continue our stewardship of the site and proceed with the annual spring cleanup. We are planning for the second Wednesday in May (May 14th in 2025), weather permitting.
Berta Boulder Bash – Bonsai
We’re planning a small, outdoor social climbing competition at Bonsai this August! The format is still being finalized, but attendance will be limited to 50 people. Expect a fun day of bouldering with fellow climbers. Follow our social media for updates as the season progresses.
Featured Alberta Crag:
Bonsai Boulders
Located near YMCA Camp Chief Hector, the Bonsai boulders have been visited by camp attendees for many years. Small forts, constructed from deadfall, are often found nestled between the boulders. Bonsai saw infrequent visits from the 2010s until 2020, when dedicated climbers revitalized the area.
The rock at the Bonsai boulders is part of the Cadomin Formation, a tough and erosion-resistant conglomerate. Examples of rock from the Cadomin Formation are common along the western edge of the foothills, notably at the Highwood bouldering area. Visually similar to concrete, Cadomin conglomerate is characterized by embedded pebbles, cobbles, and occasionally larger rocks.
At the Bonsai boulders, the rock is composed primarily of small, sharp pebbles embedded within the matrix. This makes the rock quite abrasive on the skin, comparable to Squamish granite. Depending on the time of year, Bonsai can be heavily infested with mosquitoes. Consider bringing bug spray or other insect repellent.
The climbing at Bonsai tends towards beginner and intermediate routes, as many of the faces are near-vertical with only a few steep overhangs. However, a handful of more challenging problems make Bonsai a worthwhile destination for climbers of all skill levels.
Here are some high-quality problems to check out:
Sendage Link for a Detailed List of All the lines at Bonsai
Youtube Playlist With A Collection of Beta Videos for Bonsai
Traverse AKA Moss Traverse – V0
North West Arete – V0
Shared Spaces – V1
Thrutchy – V2
The Hearth – V3
Boat People – V4
Snow White – V4
The Money Problem – V6
The Real Money Problem – V7
Whispers in the Wind – V8
Donation / Patreon Information
As a non-profit association run by volunteers, any donations are greatly appreciated and will be used to fund: the purchase of tools for trail days, insurance for group events, website hosting, and ongoing development and access to local crags, including long term development such as better trail networks, signage, potential parking, washrooms, etc. Follow the link below to become a member of WABA or donate.
Donate: https://westernalbertabouldering.ca/donate/
Become a Member: https://www.patreon.com/WABA708
